By Chelsea Halprin, Candidate for Doctor of Osteopathic Medicine 2017Skin protects and, at times, defines us. Our face is our identity, almost like a social fingerprint. Therefore, it’s no wonder that patients--especially young adults--are disheartened by acne. To self conscious patients--those caught in the vicious cycle of “pick and cover”--to anyone who has ever had or may develop acne, to friends and family of sufferers: this article is for you.
The good news. You have many useful tools in your toolbox to fight against acne. The first step of a successful battle is knowing your enemy. Acne is the most common skin problem in the United States. About 40 to 50 million Americans have acne at any one time. Acne appears when a skin pore becomes clogged. Normally, dead skin cells are shed from the surface of a pore. When the body makes excess sebum (oil that keeps skin from drying out) dead skin cells stick together inside the pore. Instead of rising to the surface, cells become trapped inside. Bacteria that live on our skin (i.e., p. acnes) can grow inside clogged pores, causing the pores to become red and swollen. If the inflammation goes deep into the skin, an acne cyst or nodule appears.
CONNECT WITH YOUR SKIN
Since excessive skin oil is the root of the problem, acne can be avoided by controlling the environment that promotes oil production or exposure. Kitchens tend to be a place where grease accumulates in the air. Hot showers can dry out the skin and cause compensatory oil production. Greasy skin or extremely dry skin promote clogging of pores with oil. It doesn’t matter whether excess oil comes from the environment or from the body’s attempt to correct oil losses. The end result of acne is the same.Other causes of excessive body oil exposure include: Oil based cosmetics, shampoos, or sunscreens. Look for products without petroleum.
Here are some myths to be aware of. The following things do not make your acne worse, contrary to what people previously believed:
- Foods such as pizza and sweets.
- Lack of proper hygiene.
HARMONIZE: SEE YOURSELF ACNE FREE
Management of acne flare-ups includes avoiding abraisive soaps and refraining from squeezing the lesions. These are examples of trauma that force pus into the dermis and result in scarring and inflammation.Over the counter and prescribed acne medicines generally work by three methods:
- Kill bacteria that cause inflammation.
- Remove excess skin oil.
- Speed up removal of dead skin cells, while promoting growth of new skin cells
Salicylic acid. Prevents accumulation of oil and dead skin cells.
Alpha hydroxy acids. Two types include glycolic acid and lactic acid. Remove dead skin cells and reduce inflammation, while stimulating the growth of new skin.
Sulfur. Prevents accumulation of oil and dead skin cells. Often combined with other ingredients, such as salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide.
Other treatments for moderate to severe or refractory acne include:
Antibiotics. Doxycycline, Tetracycline, Erythromycin, Clindamycin
Oral Contraceptive pills (for females). There is an undeniable connection between hormones and acne. A woman's ovaries and adrenal glands normally produce low levels of androgens, including testosterone, which stimulate sebum production. Taking birth control pills that contain estrogen and progesterone inhibits androgen production in the body. This results in less sebum and, consequently, less severe acne.
Retin-A (Isotretinoin). Also known as Accutane; vitamin A derivative that dramatically reduces the size of oil glands and prevents dead skin cells from accumulating and clogging pores. 95% of patients taking Accutane report clearance of acne within 15-20 weeks. This is a very potent drug that requires liver and lipid profile monitoring. Female patients must use two forms of contraception while taking Accutane because of its ability to cause birth defects in developing fetuses.
Laser & light therapy. This therapy kills bacteria that cause acne, may also shrink oil glands.
Steroid injection. Most often used for painful acne with nodules and cysts. Decreases inflammation, promoting clearance of acne within 2-4 days. Side effects include thinning of skin, appearance of prominent blood vessels, loss of skin pigmentation.
Chemical peels, prescription strength. The doctor applies a mild chemical solution to skin, which unclogs pores and removes dead skin cells.
Drainage and extraction. The doctor uses special instruments to expose and drain clogged pores. Results are often temporary.
INTEGRATE SKIN HEALTHY ALTERNATIVES
Consider these skin-friendly foods, which are rich in antioxidants and healthy fats:- Carrots, apricots, and other yellow and orange fruits and vegetables
- Cranberries, blueberries, blackberries
- Purple and red grapes
- Almonds, walnuts
- Beans, peas and lentils
- Tomatoes
- Spinach and other green leafy vegetables
- Salmon, mackerel and other fatty fish
- Dark chocolate >70% Cacao
Try some of these recipes today! Each features a skin-friendly ingredient.
- Green smoothie
- Tomato Basil Bruschetta
- Mediterranean-Style Grilled Salmon